Kapiti Island A day on the Island May 4, 2001 part of the New Zealand section of muellerworld [Photos Only]

Saturday, May 4:

The captain was immune to our wisecracks, having heard them all before (many times) and watched as we felt around in our rucksacks smugly confident that there were no stowaway rodents sneaking on to the island to feast on all the bird eggs.

We had already paid for our $NZ9 Visitor's Permit (when the permits were arranged) so we got on board and started to read the small grey pamphlet were were given after the rat check. It listed the Conditions of Entry, which ranged from complying with the Reserves Act of 1977 to not holding the Crown responsible for damage to personal property. Satisfied with that, a tractor towed our boat to the water and dumped us off for the 10-15 minute trip across the Rauoterangi Channel (which lies within the Eastern Kapiti Marine Reserve).

Two-thirds of the way across the captain backed-off the throttle while 5 or 6 common dolphins raced alongside the boat, darting below the boat and skimming the surface on either side. Back on our way, we reached the shallows and backed close to the shore while the gangway was lowered to provide us with a dry means to reach the shore.

The Place Where the Boundaries of Tara and Rangitane Divide

A DOC Ranger led us 100 metres along the rocky shore to a small pavillion where we gathered and enjoyed the mandatory 30-minute introduction to Kapiti Island. He started by reviewing the Conditions of the Permit and then launched into the history of the island, explaining how the island is primarily regrowth that has occured since the 1800's, when it was used a great deal for farming.

Kapiti island is only 2 kilometers wide, but is about 10 kilometers long. The boat drops tourists off just about in the middle of the island, in the shadow of Kaiwharawhara, the 521-metre highpoint of the island.

A short walk south of the pavillion goes past the composting toliet facilities and a bunk house to the start of the Trig & Wilkinson Tracks that lead to the lookout far above. The ranger suggested that the Trig Track be used to climb and the Wilkinson rack be used for descent. On the day we were there it was rainy and overcast and the Trig Track was slippery, but under the canpoy of the trees, the rain was considerably less.

Most of the group moved quickly through the bush and Naomi and I were quickly far behind, enjoying the birds and scenery. After our first group rest break, I started talking with Lucniano, an Italian from Milan. He was in the last three weeks of a 5-month stay in New Zeland. Tramping had kept him busy for much of the time, and we talked about at least 10 tracks that he had walked. He had been just about everywhere, but skipped a few of the major tracks due to weather and permit problems, but he said he was pretty happy about his travels because he found some smaller and lesser-known tracks that were wonderful. He particularily loved the 10-day track on Stewart Island.

Back in Milan he owns a van and works as a courier, saving enough money to travel for 5-6 months.

"I'm almost out of money this time", he said, "It'll take about one and a half years to save up enough to travel again, and I miss my friends and my family"

"And the pasta?", I added.

"The Pasta! For sure the pasta", he laughed. "I miss the pasta". He had been unimpressed by New Zeland cusine thus far, but he liked that he could get a hamburger just about anywhere.

Like many long-term tourists, he had bought a cheap car in Auckland, and will sell it back to the broker for 50% upon his departure. He was looking forward to riding his motorcycle in the mountains of northern Italy in the summer.

"They're getting ready to re-open the mountain tunnel from Chamoinx, France into Italy", I observed.

"I think it is a bad idea. The long mountain tunnels are dangerous because just about anything can happen in there. A friend of mine had a cousin die in the accident in 1997. The fire was so hot and intense, they only found his wedding ring and a cross he wore on his necklace."

After about an hour and forty minutes, we reached the junction with the top of the Wilkenson Track. There were a few arrow-shaped signs, one of them saying it was 20 minutes to the summit. Half-way there, the three of us met the other 6 from our work group who were on their way down. We made plans to meet up later at the Pavilion, and parted company. A few minutes later, we reached the small clearing and picnic table that marked the summit. We climbed a small tower that had a survey trig marker on top of it. The wonderful views that are present on clear days were not there on this day. We could see back to the mainland, and that was about it.

Birds, Birds, Birds

It seems apparent that the main reason that people visit Kapiti Island is to see the birds. Because of the isolation and the conservation efforts, many species have done quite well:

• Takahe - first classified in 1849, but was believed to be extinct in the early 1900's. Fortunately the Takahe was discovered in the Murchison Mountains in 1948. There are only about 200 in existance. Nine live on Kapiti Island and they are not shy. They approached the tourists and sifted through unattended rucksacks within a meter or two of humans.
• Kaka - The North Island version of the Kaka was inquisivitive and ever-present around the Visitor's Pavillion. When food was present, they would land on heads and shoulders to get a closer look. The Kaka on Kapiti are generally smaller-bodied than the South Island variety.
• Weka - Kapiti Island enjoys a healthy population of the Stewart Island variety of the NZ Weka. They were introduced here sometime ago and are found on every part of the island. A curious pair kept us alert at the summit of the island, and a few others introduced themselves near the pavillion.
• Kakariki - Of the few birds that are found high on the mountain, the Red-crowned Parakeet was the most brilliant. Just below the upper intersection of the Trig and Wilkinson Tracks, one darted in front of the three of us and spent a few miuntes scratching at the ground while we observed from a few metres away.
• Robin - Small and everywhere.
• Fantail - Like the Kaka, there North Island and South Island types of the Fantail. Maori tradition sometimes reconizes the Fantail as a sign of doom.
• Tui - the most beautiful singing bird in New Zealand, it adds grunts and clicks to sounds that are often similar to the Bellbird.
• NZ Wood Pigeon - I heard them before I saw them: their powerful wings break the air with a heavy, thumping movement. Kereru to the Maori, they are easily identified by a broad white breast.
• Kiwi's - inhabit the island, but are notcurnal and aren't normally seen (especially in the middle part of the island where the boat lands).

Photographing Kapiti Island from the Mainland

To the south, Pukerua Beach, just off Route 1, offers another wonderful view of the island. Since is it several kilometers south of Paraparaumu a slightly narrower perspective is offered, but the island is still very beautiful. An 80mm lens will frame the island in the same manner as the 24mm will from the tour office to the north.

Getting There

Getting a Permit

Once a permit is secured, transportation is booked seperately through an independent comapy. We used Kapiti Marine Charters, but Kapiti Tours also provides the ferry service:

• Kapiti Marine Charter (04) 297-2585
• Kapiti Tours (04) 364-5042